Monday, September 17, 2012

Surfing Ayampe Day 1


I'm in heaven. At least I'm pretty sure that this is what heaven is like, for me anyway. I'm currently staying at Bungalows La Buena Vida in Ayampe. It's a perfect surfer's hideaway. Great waves, no crowds, warm water and friendly neighbors. Plus Keith and Marilyn, the owners, are the coolest people you could ask to meet. (Big thanks to Nick Vitale for the contact) The food so far is excellent. I just had a monster, double stacked ham and cheese sandwich (when's the last time you saw a double stack?) and some tasty fries for just $4. The private rooms are clean and very cozy. Plus, each one comes with it's own balcony so you can sit outside and meditate on the sound of crashing waves at night. After eating, Marilyn set me up with a board and I hit the beach. Well, I guess you could say the beach hit me. At least the waves did anyway. When I got out, the tide was coming in and there was a swell pumping out 5 footers. It was pretty brutal for me out there and if you had been standing on the beach watching like my Dad was, you would have seen the carnage first hand. I didn't even make it out past the break. I attempted to get out twice, then I called it a day cause my arms stopped working and the ocean was getting ferocious. It became another heart wrenching experience. I could do nothing but stand on the beach and watch big rights and lefts crash in front of me! 真可惜呀! (what a pity!) Oh well, tomorrow is another day. If you're interested to see just what the waves are like here, you can go to wannasurf.com and search Ayampe. The pictures at the bottom of the page are from the very break I was attempting to surf today. Well, not much else to report for today other than the fact that I am elated to be away from Cuenca after 2 weeks. And more importantly, that I feel like the luckiest guy on Earth right now to be here with my Pop, surfing (attempting) and heeding to the call of the ocean. 


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